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Enough with the strawman debates. Here are the strongest arguments for (and against) many popular theories of hair loss.
Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is caused by the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT).
Mechanistic studies show that when AGA-prone hair follicles are exposed to DHT, dermal papilla cell clusters undergo apoptosis (cell death).
Observational data show that (1) men who lack the gene to make type II 5-alpha reductase – an enzyme that converts to free testosterone into DHT – do not go bald in adulthood, and (2) men castrated before puberty (who then reduce their exposure to male hormones by 95% throughout a lifetime) do not go bald in adulthood.
Interventional studies show that (1) testosterone injections can stimulate AGA in castrated adults, and (2) DHT-reducing drugs – like finasteride and dutasteride – can slow, stop, or partially reverse AGA in 80-90% of men over a 1, 2, and 5-year period. This creates strong mechanistic, observational, and interventional plausibility that AGA is causally linked to male hormones and, in particular, the hormone DHT.
If DHT is the main cause of AGA:
These facts suggest that factors outside of male hormones and DHT play a role in the development and progression of AGA.
In most men, AGA is likely caused by an interaction between genes and male hormones. However, AGA is a broad term that likely needs further subclassifications – as the development of pattern hair loss in children and women implicates non-androgenic pathways in some cases.
Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is caused by genetic predisposition.
Observational studies suggest varying rates of AGA across races. In men, genetic surveillance studies have found that AGA is associated with more than 220 genes involved in androgen metabolism, androgen receptor expression, and enzymes linked to the production of DHT. Observational studies in women suggest that AGA (or female pattern hair loss) is associated with genes that code for Wnt-β-catenin, TGF-α, TGF-β, Stat-3, Stat-1, PPARd, IGF-1, and other genes directly involved in hair cycling. Altogether, the data strongly suggest that AGA and female pattern hair loss are polygenic hair loss disorders with a direct relationship to genes tied to androgen activity and hair cycling. Finally, studies show that men lacking the gene that codes for type II 5-alpha reductase – which converts free testosterone into DHT – are protected from AGA throughout adulthood.
By itself, observational data cannot infer causality. Moreover, cross-sectional studies have demonstrated that genetically identical twins bald at different rates – with faster rates seen in twins who report poorer diets, higher rates of alcoholism, higher levels of stress, a higher number of divorces, and metabolic syndrome. This suggests that – in addition to genetics – dietary, lifestyle, and environmental choices may also drive the balding process, and that genes are not the end-all-be-all or the sole deterministic factor for balding.
In a vacuum, genes do not drive the entire balding process. However, when it comes to AGA and female pattern hair loss, the differences in balding rates between genetically identical twins is, in most cases, relatively small – with only minor differences in Norwood or Ludwig scores in most twins across a lifetime. For instance, one study found that just 8% of genetically identical twins expressed a “slight difference” late into adulthood. Finally, researchers do not argue that genes alone cause balding, but rather, that the interaction between genes and specific hormones – such as DHT – drive the majority of the balding process. This is supported through mechanistic, observational, and interventional research on both AGA and female pattern hair loss.
Mechanistic studies show that when cultured AGA-prone hair follicles are exposed to DHT, dermal papilla cell clusters undergo apoptosis (cell death). Observational data show that (1) men who lack the gene to make type II 5-alpha reductase – an enzyme that converts to free testosterone into DHT – do not go bald in adulthood, and (2) men castrated before puberty (thereby lowering their lifetime androgen exposure by ~95%) do not go bald in adulthood. Interventional data show that (1) AGA can be stimulated in castrated male adults who injected with testosterone, and (2) lowering type II 5-alpha DHT with drugs like finasteride and dutasteride can slow, stop, or partially reverse hair loss for 80-90% of AGA-affected men over 1, 2, and 5-year timelines.
Altogether, the current landscape of observational and interventional data show a significantly larger effect size supporting an interaction between genes and hormones in the progression of AGA versus all other explored factors.
AGA is predominantly driven by an interaction between genes and hormones. While dietary, lifestyle, and environmental factors may accelerate AGA, gene-hormonal interactions still likely drive the majority of the balding process.
Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is driven by scalp tension generated from chronic contraction of the muscles anchored to the galea aponeurotica. These muscles pull the scalp skin taut – like a drum – and initiate an inflammatory cascade that, along with androgens, leads to hair follicle miniaturization and the progression of AGA.
Two-dimensional von Mises models show that when the frontalis and occipitalis muscles of the scalp are contracted, these contractions create a pattern of tension that near-perfectly aligns with the balding process. In hypoxic (i.e., low-oxygen) environments, cell culture studies suggest that free testosterone may preferentially convert not but estradiol, but to DHT – the hormone causally associated with AGA. This provides biological plausibility that scalp tension may compress the microvasculature in the skin above the galea aponeurotica, thereby decreasing oxygen, increasing DHT, and initiating the balding process in genetically predisposed hair follicles.
Observational studies on balding scalps routinely show the presence of increased androgenic activity, decreased oxygen levels, increased inflammatory signaling proteins such as TGF-B1, and increased scarring. These same biological and histological markers are present in biopsies of other tissues affected by disease states involving chronic pressure and/or tissue tension: benign prostatic hyperplasia, Dupuytren’s contracture, and the retracted eyelids of Grave’s Disease patients.
Interventional data across 5+ studies on botulinum toxin A injections (Botox®) into the scalp muscles of AGA-affected men and women show a 75-80% response rate and an average 18-21% increase in terminal counts over 6 months.
This mechanistic, observational, and interventional data suggest that scalp tension is involved in the balding process, and that relieving this tension by way of botulinum toxin A injections into scalp muscles may slow, stop, and/or partially reverse AGA.
Scalp tension may accelerate AGA, and perhaps in 75% of men with standard Norwood-Hamilton AGA presentations. However, consensus is that scalp tension is not the root cause of AGA, nor is it a possible accelerator of all subclassifications of AGA. More robust studies exploring intramuscular botulinum toxin A injections are required to elucidate the medication’s true interventional power and mechanism(s).
Diet, lifestyle, and environment cause androgenic alopecia (AGA).
Cell culture studies suggest that stress hormones, vitamins, and nutrients all play a role in the regulation of human hair cycling. Cell culture studies show that insulin resistance in certain skin tissues may also increase 5-alpha reductase activity, and thereby levels of dihydrotestosterone (DHT) – the hormone causally associated with AGA.
Three separate studies have shown that genetically identical twin studies can go bald at different rates – with the faster-balding twins reporting a history of lower-quality diets, higher rates of alcoholism, higher levels of stress, a higher number of divorces, and a higher incidence of metabolic syndrome. Age-controlled studies show a faster progression of AGA in smokers versus non-smokers. Observational studies also show significant correlations between diets containing sugar-sweetened beverages and a faster progression of AGA.
A spectrum of dietary, lifestyle, and environmental choices causally influence our levels of systemic inflammation, hormone production, and overall health. Dietary, lifestyle, and environmental choices are not only capable of normalizing insulin sensitivity in type II diabetics, but also lowering inflammation and reducing androgen activity.
Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that diet, lifestyle, and environment may causally drive the balding process, and that these same levers might be used to also improve outcomes for AGA.
No interventional studies exist to determine if modifications to diet, lifestyle, or environment have any impact on AGA. While there is mechanistic and interventional evidence showing certain dietary, lifestyle, and environmental choices can reduce inflammation and normalize androgen activity, we cannot assume that these effects will automatically translate to improvements in hair loss disorders. For instance, it often takes more than a sustained 50% reduction in scalp DHT to produce improvements to AGA in men. While some aspects of living can be changed to normalize DHT levels, there are no studies demonstrating that any dietary, lifestyle, or environmental intervention can consistently or sustainably lower DHT levels by 70% in the scalp – let alone the serum.
Finally, while the studies on genetically identical twins are interesting and warrant further investigation, these findings generally demonstrate relatively small differences in balding rates across twins, and throughout a lifetime – even despite reportedly large differences in diet, lifestyle, and environment. This suggests that while these factors might play a role in AGA progression, their overall impact is still small, and cannot account for the majority of balding between each set of twins. One study found that only 8% of identical twins showed a “slight difference” in balding late into middle age. In fact, the difference in balding rates across twins is most likely explainable through additional bouts of telogen effluvium for the faster-balding twin, which would accelerate the balding process by accelerating the hair cycle and creating more opportunities for hair follicle miniaturization in that twin. Therefore, diet, lifestyle, and environment are most likely secondary causes of AGA progression, but not the root cause of AGA itself.
While interventional studies on diet, lifestyle, and hair loss do not exist, the absence of evidence does not imply evidence against something. Prospective studies are warranted to tease out the exact effects of diet, lifestyle, and environment on AGA development.
Certain dietary, lifestyle, and environmental factors may accelerate AGA, but their overall impact is still small relative to the involvement of genes and androgens.
Reduced blood flow causes androgenic alopecia (AGA).
Mouse model data and scalp biopsies in humans show that drugs that promote hair growth – like minoxidil – also promote the fenestration of blood vessels supporting hair follicles (i.e., angiogenesis in balding regions).
Balding scalp regions show 40% reductions to transcutaneous oxygen levels versus controls, and more than a 2.6-fold decrease in subcutaneous blood flow versus controls.
Minoxidil – a potassium ion channel opener that causes vasodilation in microvascular networks – regrows hair in men and women with AGA when applied topically and taken orally.
Low blood flow is likely a consequence of AGA, rather than a root cause.
Reductions to blood flow are likely secondary factors involved in AGA, rather than the root cause of AGA. However, multiple anti-hypertensive agents that target to open potassium ion channels have demonstrated some efficacy in AGA, and so this treatment target shouldn’t be neglected entirely.
Prostaglandins – which are inflammatory fatty acid derivatives – cause androgenic alopecia (AGA).
In 2012, a renowned research team from the University of Pennsylvania demonstrated that,in mouse models, prostaglandin D2 inhibited hair lengthening. Moreover, in vitro studies suggest that minoxidil appears to enhance the activity of prostaglandins associated with the growth phase of the hair cycle, and perhaps dampen prostaglandins associated with hair loss.
Biopsy-related studies suggest that prostaglandin D2 (PGD2) and prostaglandin J2 (PGJ2) are elevated in balding regions.
Clinical studies show that minoxidil – a drug that modifies prostaglandins – routinely regrows hair in men and women with AGA. Moreover, prostaglandin analogues and modulators like bimatoprost and latanoprost have also demonstrated mild hair growth-promoting effects. Altogether, this data suggest that prostaglandins are causally involved in the balding process.
While prostaglandins were once suspected to be causally involved in the balding process, the initial mechanistic and observational studies establishing this link have not held up in robust interventional studies. For instance, an interventional study on setipiprant – a prostaglandin D2 inhibitor – found that the drug had no effect versus placebo at improving outcomes of AGA. Other studies testing prostaglandin analogues or modifiers – such as latanoprost and bimatoprost – are poorly designed, show low response rates, and small effect sizes on hair parameters. Finally, future studies conducted by Garza et al. (and other research groups) have found conflicting results regarding the presence of prostaglandins throughout the progression of AGA – with some studies showing elevated pro-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory prostaglandin levels only during specific stages of the hair cycle or specific stages of AGA progression. Finally, minoxidil has several suspected mechanisms – many of which do not involve prostaglandin modulation. Altogether, these findings have significantly dampened excitement surrounding prostaglandins as a potential treatment target for AGA.
It is irresponsible to group together all prostaglandin analogues tested for the treatment of AGA – setipiprant, latanoprost, bimatoprost, minoxidil, and more – and assume that their mild effects do not infer causality or that all of these prostaglandin analogues have effectively ruled out the involvement of prostaglandins as a treatment target for AGA. Keep in mind that different drug doses, delivery methods, frequencies of use, and trial durations could’ve changed the results of any one of these studies. Also keep in mind that there are more prostaglandin analogues to be explored, and that research on this topic is still in its infancy.
If prostaglandin activity is causally linked to AGA, the studies (so far) suggest it is a smaller factor overall, and should remain a secondary rather than primary treatment target.
Elevated prolactin is the cause of AGA.
Mouse models show that prolactin plays a regulatory role in hair cycling, with prolactin suppression causing improved hair growth.
Observational studies suggest that hyperprolactinemia (i.e., high prolactin levels) are present in some women with female pattern hair loss.
In stump-tailed macaques affected by AGA, HMI-115 – a drug that lowers the activity of prolactin by producing antibodies to the prolactin receptor – was shown to nearly double terminal hair counts over a period of 6 months.
Altogether, this suggests that prolactin might be causally associated with AGA, and that targeting to reduce prolactin (or prolactin receptors) might improve AGA outcomes.
While there is mechanistic research in mice suggesting that hair cycling is, in part, negatively regulated by prolactin, these findings don’t always stand up to observations in human studies. For reference, prolactin levels in women are highest during pregnancy, but female hair density during pregnancy improves. Moreover, association studies have found no statistically significant differences in serum prolactin between women with female pattern hair loss versus controls. Finally, interventional studies on animals rarely translate to humans. While the results of the study on stump-tailed macaques are intriguing, we need to keep in mind that this data is published in a patent filing, not a peer-reviewed journal, with the authors having a significant conflict of interest in filing positive results to garner interest in their patented drug.
While it’s true that animal models don’t always translate to human studies, stump-tailed macaques are unique in that they’re one of the only other species to also suffer from androgenic alopecia. Therefore, people should remain excited about the possibility that prolactin might be a novel treatment target for AGA, and that prolactin receptor antibodies might improve the condition.
There is currently not enough evidence to determine if prolactin is causally associated with AGA, or if lower prolactin will improve AGA outcomes.
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